What started in Tokyo became a $10 billion habit: Salmon sushi at 40

by
Editorial Staff

How Norway sold raw salmon to Japan—and won.

As International Sushi Day dawns on 18 June, the Norwegian Seafood Council is marking four decades since the launch of “Project Japan” – the initiative that introduced raw Norwegian salmon to the Japanese sushi market and, in doing so, laid the groundwork for a global culinary trend.

In 1985, a small Norwegian delegation travelled to Tokyo with the aim of exporting seafood to Japan. What followed was a decade-long effort to establish raw Norwegian salmon as a viable ingredient in sushi—a dish with centuries of cultural weight and strict culinary standards.

This year marks the 40th anniversary of the introduction of salmon sushi to Japan.

“Norwegian salmon wouldn’t be the global favourite it is today without the help of sushi. This year we want to celebrate the shared history between Norway and Japan, as well as highlight 40 years of salmon sushi,” said Christian Chramer, CEO of the Norwegian Seafood Council.

At the time, Japan’s demand for sushi was outpacing its domestic tuna supply. Norway, seeking new export opportunities, proposed Atlantic salmon as an alternative. Project Japan, launched under the direction of then-Minister of Fisheries Thor Listau, involved tasting events, importer outreach, and promotional dinners at the Norwegian Embassy in Tokyo.

The initial reception was hesitant. Concerns over parasites and the unfamiliarity of raw salmon as a sushi topping meant the campaign took years to gain traction. But by the early 2000s, results were evident: Norwegian salmon exports to Japan had grown from 2 tonnes in 1980 to more than 45,000 tonnes annually.

Bjørn Eirik Olsen, then Head of Market Analysis and Strategy and part of the original delegation, reflected on the scale of change.

Bjørn Eirik Olsen attended the Norway-Japan Seafood Seminar this year, highlighting the shared history between the countries, and his work in Japan.

“I never dreamed that salmon as a sushi-topping would be such a huge trend all across the world,” he said.

Today, sushi and Norwegian salmon have become deeply intertwined. NSC estimates suggest that approximately 30% of all Norwegian salmon is consumed raw, much of it in the form of sushi, sashimi, or poke. In 17 out of 20 countries surveyed in an earlier NSC study, salmon was ranked as the most preferred sushi topping.

“Norway played a crucial role in introducing salmon as an ingredient in Japanese sushi during the 1980s and 1990s. Through Project Japan’s efforts, Norwegian salmon became a preferred choice in Japanese cuisine, initially as part of a trade and relationship-building initiative,” said Johan Kvalheim, the Council’s Country Director to Japan.

“Then, Japan brought Norwegian salmon to the world, establishing it as a staple of international sushi culture and making it popular globally. This partnership between Norway’s high-quality salmon production and Japan’s refined culinary traditions helped shape one of today’s most celebrated food trends,” Kvalheim added.

According to NSC data, Norway now supplies around 53% of the global salmon market, exporting to 113 countries. In Japan, where the project first took root, a recent survey of dining-out preferences found that 59% of consumers choose to eat salmon raw—compared with just 14% who prefer it seared or cooked.

Sushi helped Norwegian salmon become the global favourite it is today, CEO at the NSC Christian Chramer comments.

With global consumption of raw salmon continuing to rise, and sushi firmly entrenched in international food culture, the long-term impact of Project Japan remains visible across menus from Tokyo to Toronto.

“This year the Norwegian Seafood Council is shining a light on the shared culinary history of Japan and Norway, highlighting the 40-year anniversary of Project Japan and the introduction of salmon sushi,” the Council stated.

Whether in sushi bars, supermarkets, or fast-casual poke chains, Norwegian salmon continues to anchor one of the most successful seafood category stories of the last half century.

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